Sun Temple at Modhera / Rani-vav Stepwell in Patan

Renting another trusty Toyota Innova van (and a driver, of course), myself, Bradd, and 3 of his co-workers took off to the city of Modhera where 1 of only 7 sun temples of the world is located. It's only about a 1.5 hr drive north-west of Ahmedabad but in some ways feels like the other side of India. Passing through villages, fields and farms, we found our way to the temple. I was there earlier in January without Bradd for the annual Modhera Dance Festival at night but wanted to experience it during the daylight and so Bradd could see it.

We arrived early morning around 6:30 am so we could get the light of the rising sun. We were the first people there so it was wonderfully quiet and personal without any other tourists around. As we approached the temple, a troop of monkeys were playing on the rocks next to us and a large number of peacocks were hanging around he main structure. How cool!

The Sun Temple was built in 1026 a.d. and is still magnificent! It's not really a huge structure but has the most elaborate details carved into almost every available surface. Various flora and fauna are represented, decorative filigree, busty women and virile men in a proud array of poses and yes - quite a few sexually explicit scenes as well (India did create the Kama Sutra, you know). All these craving were punctuated by the multitude of common squirrels running rampant and birds tucked into overhangs...even 2 little owls. The front entrance steps lead straight down to a huge, open well that is almost like a reverse ziggarat. Even this structure has hundreds of it's own small shrines and decorative work. A bit dizzying, it's fairly steep and hand rails weren't very big back in 1026 so I personally didn't go down into the well very far. The sight is no longer used as a religious temple but is well-maintained and there has been a small shrine erected right next to the temple for religious offerings. I was lured into the shrine to make an offering, aka- money, in exchange for a blessing. I figured it couldn't hurt and at 10 Rupees (20 cents), I wasn't loosing much. Bradd made me rub off my "blessing" later because he said it looked like I had a dab of mustard between my eyes.

The step well was about a half hour away from Modhera in a decent size town called Patan. It's known mostly for the step well, an old fort that circles part of the town and for it's fine silk weaving. I read they actually dye the silk thread for the pattern before weaving the fabric and it takes 4-6 months to make a sari! I didn't see it but it sounds impressive.

The step well was uncovered in 1986 and is in really impressive condition. It was built around 1050 a.d. for a queen so the carvings are quite amazing. The area surrounding the step well was a sort of strange park with a meandering walkway going in no particular direction. But I was certainly amused by the troops of langur monkeys running all around us and the warning sign for the giant honey bees (just in case one is allergic). I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Dinner with the Prime Minister of Gujarat

"The President of Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry
cordially invite you along with your spouse
to
Celebrate the Unprecedental Grand Success
of
Vibrant Gujarat Global Investor's Summit- 2009
along with
Shri Narendrabhai Modi
Hon'ble Chief Minister of Gujarat"

I haven't quite figured out why we were asked to join Bradd's boss & wife to this dinner but we were and of course, we went! Bradd had attended the actual summit which was a really big deal for the whole state of Gujarat. The state actually built a new "city" just for the the Vibrant Gujarat Summit outside of Ahmedabad. The summit was in the newspapers every day for weeks leading up to it and it's purpose (as I understand) was to showcase Gujarat state and it's possibilities to local and especially foreign investors - Japan was a biggie. This particular dinner was held in honor of how well the summit went and so the Chief Prime Minister could expound on the success of the event. It was held at the house of a very influential family of Ahmedabad's, at their "farmhouse" outside of the city which is now considered the farthest suburb. The grounds were beautifully landscaped with lovely greenery and lights and candles. And appropriately catered by a local restaurant owner. After the Prime Minsters speech, which I only understood a few words but apparently very entertaining, everybody lined up to shake his hand...which Bradd and I both did. Very cool considering I've never met the mayor of my home town, let alone the governor!

Better quality and more pics are coming...

Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary

This past weekend we took a little jaunt West out of Ahmedabad to the Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. Tis a large lake with marshes hosting large flocks of migratory birds in the winter months from November - February...flamingos, different varieties of cranes, storks, ibis, etc. We walked around the small shore line as the boat tours initially scared us - it looked like our only option was to ride in a tiny row boat, driven gondola-style, with 10 other people. Other than the trash strewn shore, which was swept & burned as is most trash in India, it was quite beautiful.

Over the chattering of the weekender crowds, we could enjoy sounds of the water, birds and a lovely breeze. After some chai and photos of local water buffalo, we saw there were small boats with only a few people inside so Bradd and I opted for a 1 hour ride. Apparently, only the 2 hour ride would allow us to get to the flamingos but it was still a pleasant ride even though the majority of visible birds were black ducks and sea gulls. Although disappointed in not seeing the huge flocks of flamingos or other masses of exotic birds, we were able to spot some black ibis, storks, spoonbills, grumpy brown herons, emerald green kingfishers, 3 flamingos, and a few others I haven't found the names of yet.

On the drive out of the park, I spotted a flock of enormous birds in a field which ended up being demoiselle or sarus cranes...not positive. They were magnificent birds that we were lucky to photograph on land and in a swirling flock above our heads. They looked to be at last as tall as me with a 5-6 foot wingspan so it made quite an impact on me flying above our heads.

Rajwadu

We ex-pats tend to roam in herds ourselves so a group of us went to this great place called Rajwadu. Now if you're thinking Xanadu, then I'm your #1 fan but that's a whole other issue.

Anywho - Rajwadu is one of 2 places in Ahmedabad that provides a lovely evening of traditional Gujarati cuisine, dance, and puppetry, with a little Rajasthani thrown in for good measure. It may sound cheezy but it's quite cool! It's tucked away in a very non-descript neighboorhood with a very unassuming entrance. They have created this open air venue that's very intimate; it's almost like a secret garden with winding pathways with little bridges over ponds and greenery everywhere and all lit with candles and torches. There are larger, main areas with lounges to watch traditional dancing with women balancing burning pots on their heads (not sure if that part is traditional but still a really great effect!) and fire-breathing men. In another corner, a puppet show with an elaborate stage set up. I may be missing something but after the dancing, we were called to dinner and led through the pathways to our private dining area. The food is served in Gujarati Thali style which is a large metal plate with a multitude of small dishes on it...server after server come around with every type of dish imaginable; dal (lentil stew/soup) kadhai (similar to dal but more sour/ yogurt based), at least 5 kinds of bread, 3-4 types of cooked vegetables/potatos, 2 sweets, buttermilk, raita (raw vegetables in a spiced yogurt) and of course pani (water). But as if ths weren't enough, the servers come back a few times each offering 2nd, 3rd, or 4th helpings! And they still serve ice cream as desert (they even offered a 2nd helping of that). The cost of all this is still a meager Rs. 325 (approx US $6.65). I love india.

Uttarayan - Annual Kite Festival in Ahmedabad

Holy Kites Batman! OK, maybe the one revered item in India that's not officially a religious icon although it seems close in stature. It is quite difficult to describe this festival which is celebrated in a HUGE way here. Don't get me wrong- it's very popular everywhere else in India but no more so than in Ahmedabad. It' s actually an official holiday...for kites. I mean, literally, nobody works for at least the 1st day of the festival and from what I heard, a lot of people get of 2 full days off for this!

Weeks leading up to this day, we saw giant spools of mostly neon pink kite string being dyed along side of the road then laid out in 15 ft. sections to dry. Every kid on the street had a kite or kite string in their hand or was watching a friend. You see, they need to practice. It's not about just having fun and flying a kite, oh no. It's a competitive sport and quite dangerous; actually deadly. The string we saw being dyed on the streets were actually being coated in a glass power meant to strengthen and sharpen the strings and thus be more likely to cut an opponents kite string. This causes 2 main problems...birds get cut down from the sky & motorcyclists can get sliced driving over bridges. Someone actually created special wire to attach to your bike so you don't get clothes-lined. Oh and there are more perilous effects; kids fall off of roof tops while flying or chasing a kite, they run in and out of traffic and sometimes get hit yet everybody loves this! We were invited to join a kite party at a high school in the old city. When I say say a kite party, I mean they had dance music pumping, more than a hundred people on the roof (most flying kites), and a enormous catered dinner. There are actually specific foods that are eaten for this event...and all of it was very tasty, of course.

When you're stand on the roof of the school, maybe 6 stories high, you realize that EVERYONE ELSE is on their roof-tops flying kites. As far as you can see, there are kites, kites and more kites. It was really a sight to see although I kept fearing for my exposed neck line. Being paranoid that I am, I didn't fly a kite but but instead opted to watch Bradd have a go and keep my eyes open.

Around Ahmedabad

Everyone keeps asking me for a description of the city, my neighborhood, and what Bradd and I have been doing. I personally have a tough time remembering what I tell who. Plus, I cannot remember these kind of details when trying to hold a conversation when I just woke up or about to pass out at night.

Our Hood:

Kind of what may be called "suburban" by western terms. Strange in the sense that the property values are outrageous here but yet we see new apartment buildings across the street from a farmer with a plot of dust, 2 cows and a shack. Both of which pieces of property a worth the same staggering price...upwards of 2.2 million! Even stranger, that same farmer just recently put up a volleyball net. The streets are wider here, most are paved and a short 10 minute rickshaw ride brings us to a hugely developed intersection of some of the tackiest retail ever. 4 malls, 2 cinemas, countless restaurants, shops, and so much traffic.

There are street dogs everywhere. Everywhere. Everywhere. There's no escaping their presence whether you see them eating-anything, puppies playing on the side of the road or hear packs of them causing a ruckus at any given moment. I have to walk Duke carrying a large bamboo cane for his protection but the dogs also appreciate a good rock throwing.

We see brand new BMW's and Mercedes pulling into multi-million dollar homes but also goat herders walking with their grazing, crazy-horned flocks (which Duke seems to also be stunned by...). Giant bulls hanging out on the side of the road, small-sad little donkeys hauling construction debris, small herds of cows and water buffalo snacking from the dumpsters, countless camels pulling carts of goods or people and the multitude of auto-rickshaws, motorcycles and bikes on the road.

More to come...

Kinnu and I head to Udaipur

While Bradd was toiling away at work, Kinnu and I decided to take a trip. Well, she had already planned it and I decided to tag along. Udaipur is about 4 hours North of Ahmedabad in the bordering state of Rajasthan. Udaipur is well known as the city of lakes, although I think of it as the city of palaces as there are a plethora of them all over the city and surrounding areas. It really is beautiful there as it's landscape is rugged, hilly and for the most part - green. A great change of scenery from the dry and dusty city of Ahmedabad. The old city of Udaipur is a labyrinth of narrow streets and back alleys and all hills filled with skinny shops squeezed into every nook and cranny.

As Kinnu and I walked the streets, we were constantly bombarded with "Hello madam" and " Come look at these scarves, come look! Silk and cashmere!" or just a forceful "Good morning!". Mostly they wanted to sell us whatever. It's a huge tourist attraction and but still great shopping; jewelry, textiles, spices, and silk paintings are the specialties there. Oh! and such great prices - mostly. Most of the streets headed straight up go towards the City Palace which is now half museum- half fancy hotel and headed down go straight to Lake Pichola, which is the biggest lake in the area.



Our hotel, Jaiwana Haveli, was sitting very near the bottom of the streets near the lake shore which affords all the small hotels along there great views of the lake. Most have roof-top dining albeit mediocre food. Anybody enjoying these roof-top view then has front row seats to see the Lake Palace Hotel which is the very posh hotel made famous by the James Bond flick, Octopussy. It really is quite a sight - it sits on and encompasses it's own island in the middle of Lake Pichola. Very cool. We wanted to take one of the many tour boats around the lake and possibly stop at the Lake Palace Hotel but after a long uphill trek, found out they weren't running. Ugh. But I got some great shots of some fancily dressed camels!



If you're interested in more on Udaipur... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udaipur,_Rajasthan